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By S.S. MUNCH Times Leader Food Critic
Wednesday, March 02, 2005     Page: 5D

Northeastern Pennsylvania’s most elegant (in my humble opinion) pizza joint
is no more, and that was the bad news. But there’s a new game in the tiny town
of Chinchilla, where once dwelt the flagship Sabatini’s. Italian to its core,
it answers to the name Amore, and it offers oh so much to love.
   
And we do hope you love garlic. But more on that later.
    We decided on a late dinner on a Thursday, and I expected the place to be
fairly quiet. On the contrary, it was hopping, particularly the upscale yet
funky-casual bar, alive with the clatter and chatter of happy people.
   
My companion arrived earlier than I and started in the bar with a pizza
appetizer he described as “wonderful,” then we moved on to the main dining
room, which evoked fanciful thoughts of Rome and Tuscany alike. En route, I
couldn’t help admiring the comforting ambience of such fixtures as a
wall-inlaid, semi-hidden fireplace with its warm-fuzzy glow enchantingly
shrouded by old-world, iron-bedecked double doors.
   
I think I’m going to like it here, I told myself, as Dean Martin crooned at
perfect volume overhead. A snuggly atmosphere is half the battle, and the deal
was sealed when we were ushered to an oversize, high-backed booth by a large
window.
   
Our cordial, conscientious server, Mike, quickly brought us a wine list,
not terribly extensive but more than acceptable, and a plate of at least six
crusty rolls, which glistened invitingly with melted butter and fresh chopped
garlic atop. Crusty is the operative word, as my sharp knife proved no match
for these. I do like to use utensils when bread comes so nicely dressed, you
understand. So, me, I would’ve preferred the bread a bit softer, but others no
doubt will like it just the way it is.
   
Amore offers up an impressive 18 appetizer choices, ranging from
entry-level standards such as french fries ($2.25) and mozzarella sticks
($4.95) to mid-range fare such as bruschetta ($6.95), baked clams ($7.45 and
$13.99) and shrimp cocktail ($8.95) all the way up to higher-end house
specialties, which max out at $15.95. Try Amore Rotando Italian bread with
sauteed shrimp and signature cream sauce for $12.95, Sicilian chicken
antipasto for $10.95, or hot antipasto with shrimp, mussels, clams, stuffed
peppers and eggplant rollatine for the $15.95 endpoint.
   
My companion thoroughly enjoyed his all-time-favorite appetizer: stuffed
mushrooms with crabmeat ($10.95). Initially, he thought the plate might be a
bit pricy, but the quantity explained away the sticker. Two or more can
positively share.
   
I chose sauteed sausage and spinach ($7.95), thinking now there’s something
you don’t see every day. Not to gush or anything, but this starter was
spectacular and gave me a new idea for the Italian-style spinach I’ve been
playing around with at home. A heaping portion of perfectly textured spinach
formed velvety sheets for an extremely generous blanket of succulent sliced
sausage coins, which were mild with just a hint of spice. Fresh garlic made a
return appearance, hiding under and throughout the greens and shouting “look
at me” from atop the meat. Mike proclaimed the dish one of his absolute
favorites, and if he hadn’t warned me of the portion sizes ahead, I no doubt
would have handled every last bit of this.
   
Choosing a main plate was quite the chore, as the menu ran the gamut.
   
Basic pasta comes in seven forms with your pick of nine sauces or baked and
topped with mozzarella in another seven shapes. Tags range from $12.95 to
$15.95.
   
After that, consider nine chicken dishes ($14.95-$17.95), eight veals
($15.95-$18.95) or an array of seafood ranging from the market’s best to
almost anything you can do with shrimp. Four vegetarian dishes and six steaks
round out the menu, which also tempts with quite an array of pizza done “the
old Italian way.” And, for the casual diner, cheeseburgers, heroes and wraps
make the list as well.
   
All dinners come with soup or salad, and our salads deserve mention for the
extreme freshness and crispness of the lettuce especially. Even my basic
Italian dressing had quite a little personality.
   
My companion considers himself a veal-parmigiana aficionado and so was
somewhat apologetic in choosing this ($15.95) as his main plate again. Mike,
however, said it’s on the top of Amore’s popularity list. It passed with
flying colors, and this I know because my companion twice advised the
attentive Mike that indeed he was “still working on it.”
   
I have to admit I wished he would’ve tried what Amore calls “Veal Fantasy,”
sauteed with peppers, sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke hearts in a blush-wine
cream sauce for $3 more, but I was happy to see him happy with the basics.
   
I decided to go meatless and asked Mike to suggest the best eggplant in the
house. He said go with the rollatine, and so I did. Softer-than-soft eggplant
came rolled around ricotta and fresh herbs and topped off with fresh-basil
tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. The dish was as beautiful to the taste
buds as the mountains and sea to the eyes. OK, so maybe I oversell a tad, but
those words come to mind because the sauce seemed an ocean’s worth and the
cheese laced and draped over the tender eggplant as Italy’s hills over its
countryside.
   
Spoiled by all of this, I found the side of pasta less than remarkable, but
no offense. The poor basic ziti just seemed so plain and forlorn sitting there
all alone, though its cover of meatless sauce was zippy and commendable in its
own right.
   
Desserts? We’d have loved to have looked into the advertised variety, if we
could even dream of fitting it in. Sorry, folks. Not a chance. (But if you can
do it, let us know.)
   
“No one leaves Amore hungry,” Mike told us. “Ever.”
   
We’ve no doubts.
   
Want a good, solid meal in a place you can’t help but love? Get thee to
Amore. And bring the pint-size people, too. Nothing is more than $5.95 on the
eight-item Kiddie Corner menu.
   
If there’s any criticism at all to mention, it might be this: Romantic and
alluring as Amore is, a quiet, intimate dinner is not a given. My
construction-minded companion pointed out that the ceiling was acoustic, so it
surprised him that we could hear the conversation of our neighbor diners so
well.
   
Then again, I’m told this is a restaurant run by the son of Italian
immigrants. And aren’t the truest Italian dinners, well, not exactly solemn?
   
Your call. Or let your mood decide. Sensitive ears may think about
protesting, but grateful bellies are likely to win ’em over fast.
   
What: Amore Italian Ristorante
   
Where: 223 Northern Boulevard (Route 6), Chinchilla
   
Call: 570-587-4333
   
Credit cards? Yes
   
Reservations necessary? No, but probably a good idea
   
Handicapped accessible? Yes
   
Smoking/nonsmoking? Smoking allowed only in bar.